A RESPONSE TO COMMUNITIES’ DESIRE FOR MORE FRUIT
THE IDEA
Isabella Higgins, the farm manager of Urban Creators Life Do Grow Farm in North Philadelphia, was feeling enchanted by the idea of more fruit. This was also buttressed by the idea of less work in comparison to annual production. Moving in a fruit direction and covering up fallow space with perennials can be a good move for urban agriculture projects if capacity is limited. Additionally, Isa shared that some of the neighbors were interested in having more fruit in the neighborhood.

THE PROCESS
So what was this process like? Let’s go over the goals + site analysis + design + implementation process so folks like you can take on similar projects! Important to note this process can vary depending on how many people are involved, the type of space, the neighborhood, and resources.
Goal
The goal was to produce more fruit as a response to the neighbor’s desire from the space and less maintenance over time securing a more self-sustaining urban agricultural space.
Site Analysis
The site analysis involved site considerations, base mapping the space and measuring out the space and any existing features (trees, structures, fences, etc.). Site considerations means looking at different aspects of the site to gain a deeper understanding that can help inform your design. These aspects include: sun exposure, where the water sits, topography, the soil fertility, pH, and more! Basemapping involves drawing out the site and what already exists. This can be drawn on some graph paper using a scale or can be drawn out of scale with the measurements written down. Here is a resource that explains how to use a scale.
Design Process
The design process involved making a plant list, drawing up the design, and editing. Often, if designing communally with neighbors who are deeply invested in the planting, the initial design is often presented to neighbors at community meetings with space for revisions and future meetings with the new design. For this project, the design was made by Isa, who considered community needs and the capacity of the farm based off her relationship with neighbors. I provided feedback based off my experience with orchard design and involvement with the space as the lead POP staff member for Urban Creators.

Source: Urban Creators
The plant list was as follows: 2x elderberries, 2x fig, 1x (self-pollinating) plum, 4x blueberries, 10x raspberries, dwarf crested iris, strawberries, thyme, and chives.
The placement of plants considers sun exposure, where the water sits, and access to the space. Brambles were placed on the edge, since they get rather wild. The blueberries were placed in a grouping on the edge for ease of soil acidifier application. The large plum was in the center with a shade tolerant, native dwarf crested iris planted underneath. The figs and elderberries were placed along the edge since they take up a lot of space. Strawberries and herbs (chives and thyme) were companion planted in one bed for ease of weeding and watering.
Here is a resource for getting more information on how to draw a landscape/garden design.
THE PLANTING
Planting on a less hot, cloudy day is ideal, but this is not always possible. We chose a rather warm-hot day in spring to plant, so we made sure to really water each plant deeply and slowly after planting. We placed each plant before actually planting and made some minor shifts. Sometimes the planting differs slightly from the design. That’s normal! You can’t account for everything perfectly away from the site. Then we got to planting, making sure the holes were twice as wide as the pot and making sure to not plant too deep. The base of the trunk, where the trunk meets the roots (root flare), should be level or slightly above the soil surface. Too deep and it can cause rot! Each helper tackled a different section to give each person enough room to dig. After planting, one person watered each plant while others laid down cardboard and mulched on top. Lastly, the trees an shrubs should be protected with fencing if the area is mowed/weed whacked. In this case, the area isn’t mowed so we didn’t fence the trees, although fencing can still be good for deterring deer or other pests if that is an issue.


Source: Urban Creators
MAINTENANCE
The main thing for maintenance in the first season is watering the trees/brambles/herbs properly, mulching, weeding around them to reduce competition, and thinning new fruitlets that first year. Check out POP’s handout on Orchard Weed Management.
Watering
For spring plantings, water twice a week for first two months, followed by once a week through the fall. Check out POP’s Orchard Irrigation Resource.
Mulching
Make sure to add a few inches of woodchips immediately following planting. This is to retain moisture and reduce weed pressure. To help eliminate existing weeds, place a layer of overlapping cardboard on the soil and add woodchips on top (this is called sheet mulching). Learn more in POP’s blog post about sheetmulching.
Weeding
Stay on top of weeding, especially in spring and summer. Do a good final weeding in late fall to make spring weeding the following season easier. Especially be vigilant and consistent with the more aggressive weeds (bindweed, mugwort, knotweed, thistle, quack grass, Bermuda grass, English ivy, clematis, etc). These shouldn’t be added to the compost unless you have a hot system that is frequently turned. Link to new weeding resource when ready.
Thinning
For fruit trees with bigger fruit (apples, pears, plums, peaches, nectarines), all the fruitlets can be removed the first year. This is a seemingly challenging and sad task, but it’ll benefit the tree in the end. It won’t put so much energy into the fruit the first year and can focus on putting energy towards establishing the root system and branches. Learn more in POP’s blog post about fruit thinning.
SOURCES
Drawing a Landscape Plan, The Base Map | UGA Cooperative Extension
Design Guide: Understanding and Using Scale.
UC Green – Cooperative Community Greening
POP’s blog post about fruit thinning
POP’s blog post about sheetmulching
This POP Blog was written by Orchard Assistant Simone Shemshedini with help from Co-Executive Director Phil Forsyth.
SUPPORT US! If you found this entry useful, informative, or inspiring, please consider a donation of any size to help POP in planting and supporting community orchards in Philadelphia: phillyorchards.org/donate
